Hawaii's famous surf season just started, but one daring surfing legend may have already won it.
On Nov. 12, the remnants of Typhoon Nuri sent a colossal 15-to-25 foot swell to Maui and Jaws, one of the Hawaii's most hallowed surf breaks, awakened for the first time this year.
Shane Dorian, along with 20 other respected big wave surfers, were there to welcome the super-sized, wave-spitting monster with aloha.
Forty-two-year-old Dorian shoots down the lip of the wave, landing perfectly on its steep face, deep inside the forming barrel. The ride was so perfectly executed, it was placed as an early contender for Billabong's 2015 XXL Big Wave Awards Ride of The Year -- an award Dorian won in 2013 for another epic wave at Jaws.
"That wave on Wednesday was just perfect, and from the best angle," Dorian told Surfline.com, a swell tracking website that also claimed Dorian's ride as their official Wave of the Day.
“[Jaws is] by far my favorite big wave in the world," he went on to tell local news site Maui Now. "Just incredibly scary, exhilarating and super challenging. At the same time, the quality of the wave is like nothing else … I don’t know any other wave that’s like that.”
To truly appreciate Dorian's ride, check out Tyler Larronde on the same day at Jaws with a candidate for the 2015 Wipeout Of The Year:
Source: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/11/18/shane-dorian-jaws-wave_n_6162228.html?utm_hp_ref=travel&ir=Travel and provided by entertainment-movie-news.com
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